Friday, March 14, 2008

Native American Earth Works

The Mississippian Culture was a North American Native American culture from about 700 AD. Rements of it lasted until the French explorations and settlement of the lower Mississippi. The culture had a trading area from the Appalachians to the Rockies and from Wisconsin to the Gulf.

My first experience with remnants of the Mississippian culture was the Cahokia Mounds complex just outside East St. Louis. You can not really call the man-made hills east of St. Louis "mounds." They are too big for that. The really are "earth works." This city would have been as impressive as Machu Picchu if the building material had been stone. But it was built what was available locally. In Machu Picchu, the local building material was stone. In the central part of North America, the building material was with wood, straw, mud and earth. The only remaining structures are the earthworks. The 70 earthworks that are remaining are massive.

Monks Mound (named after the French monks who lived there in the early 1800s), the largest mound--and probably the most culturally significant--covers 14 acres and rises to a height of 100 feet. It is on a large flat plain east of St. Louis. It is the largest structure around. After climbing the (modern) steps to the top, you can see all the way to St. Louis on the other side of the Mississippi and to the bluffs beyond St. Louis. Chahokia was abandoned around the 1300s .
I also spent some time at the remains of the Grand Village of the Natchez Tribe (of course in Natchez, MS.). They appear to be the last remnant of the Mississippian culture. The remains of the Grand Village of the Natchez Indians is in suburban Natchez, MS, at the end of a subdivision road. It appears that the Natchez were still practicing the ceremonies of the Mississippian culture when the French set up a small settlement in the area in the early 1600s so there are some written descriptions of the practicing culture.

Emerald Mound is just outside of Natchez. The theory is that it was the ceremonial center of the Natchez. It is the largest earthwork in the area and the top has topography similar to that of Monks Mound outside of St. Louis.

Three downtowns

I was in Moline, Il's downtown on Thursday morning. The major attractions are the arena and the John Deere history complex--a new pavilion and a block of historic buildings. There didn't seem to be many other shops or restaurants. The John Deere history complex was well done and did seem to attract a number of tourists. There didn't appear to be any other activity.

Hannibal, Mo's downtown is all about MarkTwain. There are about half a dozen buildings that are the Mark Twain museum. Just about everything else is named to tie into Mark Twain. They've done a very good job of retaining the historic character of the downtown--the old department store is a great example of reuse--it is now a museum. Bu the place is dead. When I arrived last night at about 5:30, the only places that were open were the coffee place and the dinette. The next morning from 9 AM to 11 AM, it was still pretty dead. Checking the open hours signs, it was clear they aere not open on Friday night either.

Cape Girardeau's downtown was buzzing on Friday when I got there at 6 PM. Even now (about 10 PM, it has a lot of activity. (OK, I admit it is a Friday night--but it has places people would go to on Friday night). Only seem to have one or two vacant store fronts. The coffee shop I'm in has had a steady stream of people (In Hannibal last night, while there were people who hung out in the coffee shop, there was little traffic.)


So, why the difference?
  • Cape Girardeau has a major college (but a lot of the people downtown are NOT college students)
  • Cape Girardeau has a larger population than Hannibal but is much smaller than the Quad Cities.
  • All three cities/towns do have major development along a freeway a few miles away from downtown so that isn't an issue.
  • All three have done a very good job of retaining the historic downtown commercial buildings from the early 20th century so that isn't an issue either.
  • All three have a new riverfront park. Cape Girardeau's is half a block from downtown but is really just a concrete walkway on the river side of a 11 foot concrete flood wall. It doesn't seem to have much traffic.
  • Maybe it is art. In one block there were three art galleries. Maybe Tom Borrup is right about art being an economic development engine http://www.communityandculture.com/.
I guess I really don't know why the difference. I wonder if any public affairs school has done an in depth study??

My daughter pointed out the obvious. Cape Giaradeau's downtown appeals to locals and tourists, not just tourists. The developments that were to draw people to downtown Moline and Hannibal only appeal to tourists. A downtown can not just rely on people from out of town. (My experience tonight in Memphis confirms this. While Memphis downtown does draw tourists, it draws many more locals.)

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Burlington, Ia


Kind of ran out of time for the trip from the Quad Cities to Hannibal, Mo. Mainly took Highway 61 and didn't stop for much. Did spend some time in Burlington, IA.

Burlington (pop of about 30,000) is there because or railroads. There are a number of ravines that run from the river up to the plains. These provided easy routes for the railroads.

Burlington is the namesake of The Burlington Line--on of Jame J. Hill's railroads (in addtion to the Northern Pacific and Great Northern.

Like just about all the river towns and cities, the rail freight yards next to the river have been replaced by a riverfront park. But they all still have a main line railroad between downtown and the river.

Burlington has an active downtown that isn't just a historic district. Had lunch at "The Big Muddy" bar and grill. While it was in an old railroad freight house next to the river, they didn't overdo the fake historic stuff. There was a sign on the wall "1996 Flood Level" that was at table height. When I asked if they had a "local beer," the response was "do you mean domestic?"--not a good sign. The fish sandwich was good though.

Burlington has a great looking Cable Stay Bridge over the river.

Went through a small town named "Mediapolis, IA." Only saw one printer. Town seemed to be about two blocks wide.

Resources for trip down the Mississippi

I'll be adding resources to this blog entry as I use them:

Clinton, IA and the Quad Cities

I always though of Clinton Iowa (where my Grandmother lived for the whole time I knew her) was just a sleepy, little river town that had seen better days. However, like a lot of the Iowa towns I've been going through, it seems to have a lot of industry and seems to be growing. And the industry seems to be rather mixed--not all of it is animal feed processing or food processing. Next time you hear the political commentators on the news channels dismiss the Iowa caucuses as just a small, rural, agricultural state, remember, while it doesn't have big cities, it has a significant number of small cities. I'll have to check the census data to see how diverse it's economy is.

One more political note: Most of the lawn signs from the Iowa caucuses have been taken down. I've only seen a few--and only for Ron Paul, John Edwards and Barak Obama.
Back to my road trip. Before I left Clinton, I visited their new riverfront park. It was build as part of the project that added a flood levy. It has a nice walking path right along the river but not much else (except the "River Boar" casino that all the river towns in Iowa and Illinois seem to have. At least Clinton's actually floats in the river (some are just built on pilings). Kind of a disconcerting sign on the river walk though: Notice: ....outfall from a combined sewer system... ...flow....may contain untreated sewage that could be hazardous to human health.


The drive to the Quad Cities (Davenport, Moline, Rock Island and one more) took me a ways away from the river but still in the river vally. Got back to the river a little before the Quad Cities and drove through some VERY small river towns that definitely have seen their better days.

Quad Cities
Took some time to visit my aunt who lives in Moline (she was the first woman elected alderman in Moline quite a few years ago).

The four cities have quite different characters. Bettendorf is the newest "Quad". (I remember when the area was called the Tri Cities.) It is more like the suburban extension of Davenport. It does have the largest aluminum rolling plant in the world (sided of course in aluminum).

Davenport is the other city on the Iowa side. By far the largest of the four at about 100,000. It seems to have a downtown that still has some activity.

Moline is there because a dam was build across that channel of the river to Rock Island (the island). This provided power for industry in 1837. The best known is John Deere. In fact, the most activity downtown is concentrated around the historic John Deere area. John Deere has the John Deere Pavilion, which has BIG new farm equipment and a history (at least the positive side) of mechanized farming.

I really didn't get any time in Rock Island, except for on the Island. The Island is an army base--a large munitions arsenal. The island was the location for the first railroad bridge across the Mississippi (Minneapolis--at Nicolett Island--was the location of the first bridge across the Mississippi). There are some great old limestone buildings as part of the arsenal--along with Union and Confederate cemeteries. Stopped in at the Lock and Dam 15 Vistor Center--lots of Canvas Back and Blue Bill Ducks just sitting in the river. The park ranger said they had a large number (over a hundered) Bald Eagles wintering over this year.

Took "Government Bridge" back to the Iowa side. It was build in 1895 for both railroad and road access to the island and is still in use (can't help but think about the 1060's freeway bridge in Minneapolis tha collapsed this summer).
There is a great series of articles on Rock Island (the Railroad, the song and the island) at Minnesota public Radio at http://news.minnesota.publicradio.org/features/200210/15_bickalj_rockisland/.

Ended up back on US 61 on my way south.

Some Mississippi Geography

[Updated 3/14, 3/17]
Not sure how to organize these blogs. I was going to just blog once a day but there are a few topics that cover the whole river. So, today I'll start the river geography post.

It has been fascinating watching the landscape change as I've driven down river.

From the source to St. Anthony Falls in Minneapolis, the river has what I'd call a very shallow valley. For example, if flows through a very flat sand plain between St. Cloud, MN and Minneapolis.After St. Anthony Falls, the river flows through what can best be described as a ravine to the junction with the Minnesota River right at the Minneapolis St. Paul Airport. It is between 50 and 100 feet deep and in places, at the base it is no wider than the river itself.

During the end of the last Ice age, the Minnesota River (call Glacial River Warren) carried a huge amount of water and carved a much wider valley.

For some reason (I may decide to research this some time in the future, starting at the downriver end of St. Paul there are some very tall, very steep bluffs along the river. South of Red Wing, Mn it is not uncommon to see vertical cliff faces of limestone.

It also looks like the rivers entering the Mississippi from the east (Wisconsin, Illinois)are significantly larger than the rivers entering from Minnesota and Iowa. From the east the St. Croix, Wisconsin, Chippewa, Illinois and Ohio rivers join the Mississippi. On the west side, the only big rivers seem to be the Minnesota and Des Moines.The river valley slowly widens as you drive into Iowa. At Clinton Iowa, the bluffs disappear abruptly. From there South [I'll fill in where it ends when I get there], The river runs in a rather wide valley. Bot the valley ends at some rather steep hills. On top of the hills it's rolling plains.

South of Hannibal the limestone bluffs returned. As I was driving down the Illinois side, the river was right next to the road on the right and the bluffs were next to the road on the left. It turns out that the valley was still just as wide. The river was just on the far east side of the valley (St. Louis on the other side of the river is in the river valley.

The river's current is much more noticeable after St. Louis. Above St. Louis, the Lock and Dam system creates 29 "pools." South of St. Louis there are no more dams and the river is free flowing. I would not want to be in that current in a small boat (e.g. smaller than a barge).

South of the Ohio River the valley flattens out. It is the aluvial plain of the Mississippi--thousands of years of flood have deposited all the mud it was carrying down from the north. Also south of the Ohio, the river seems much bigger and faster. (I couldn't get to Fort Defiance at the confluence of the Mississippi and Ohio--it was flooded.

Surprise--at about Vicksburg, hills--it is not flat. Took the last 40 miles of the Natchez trace to Natchez--a National Park Service Parkway from Nashville to Natchez that follows the historic trail.


[More to come as I see more]

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Minneapolis to Clinton, IA

This was a fast trip. I didn't stop for much since I got a late start this morning. The good side of that is everything is relatively close to home and Bev and I can take our time checking out some cool things along the Mississippi.

One place I did stop was the National Eagle Center in Wabasha Minnesota. It is in an area of the River that stays open all winter and attracts a lot of Bald Eagles. But, my luck struck again. Yesterday was sunny and perfect for Eagle soaring (using the thermals caused by the Sun heating the ground. So they got their fill of flying and fishing. Today was cloudy--no thermals. So today, they just relaxed and digested their meals from yesterday. But I did see six eagles overhead on my way down the river. The picture is of a Golden Eagle that has a broken wing that didn't heal properly. His name is Donald.

The geography is interesting. In the upper Mississippi, the river is in a rather deep valley starting in St. Paul (in Minneapolis it is in a ravine). As you get to southeastern Minnesota, northeastern Iowa and that part of Wisconsin, it is what is called a driftless area. For some reason, during all the glacial events during the Ice Ages, this area was never covered by a glacier. No glacial drift was deposited and the tops of the bluffs were not cut off. So there are some great limestone bluffs all along the river.

Still in the snow. In fact, Southern Wisconsin along the river looks like they had huge drifts. Places higher than my car.

Time to stop. I managed to leave my laptop's power supply in Minneapolis so I'm trying to conserve battery power.

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Minneapolis to New Orleans Road Trip (via the Mississippi)


I'm almost ready to start this road trip. Just a few more things on my to-do list that need to be done.

After going through some guide books and listing everything I want to do along The River, I have one problem:
  • Too much to do in too little time.
I have to be in New Orleans for the Nonprofit Technology Conferenc next Wednesday. Leaving tomorrow morning gives me seven days to drive the about 1500 miles. That may sound like a lot of time but there is a lot to see along the way and this is definately not be a freeway trip--a lot of slow, winding roads.

One way I'm dealing with my time limitation is to cut off the two ends of the river:
  • I'll be starting in Minneapolis (my home) and not from Lake Itasca (the source of the Mississippi). This will save the 200 miles from Minneapolis to Itasca (by a direct route) and 430 miles back along the (still frozen) Mississippi.
  • I'm actually be skipping all of the St. Paul part of the river and start the real trip in Red Wing MN (far SE corner of the Twin Cities metro area). I figure I can drive the river road here any time.
  • I'll be ending in New Orleans, not at Venice, LA--the town at the end of the road near the actual mouth of the Mississippi.
The plan is to get to the Quad Cites in Iowa/Illinois by tomorrow night.

I will also be twittering along the way at http://www.twitter.com//sheldonM

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Canceling my newspaper subscription after over a quarter century

I've had a tradition of reading the Minneapolis newspaper --the Star Tribune (http://www.startribune.com/)--at breakfast for about 30 years. Today I canceled my subscription. There were a lot of reasons (in no particular order):
  • In the last few layoffs, the paper has eliminated a number of my favorite reporters and writers.
  • The STrib is providing even less coverage of things in the city of Minneapolis than before--and it wasn't great before. And I really don't care about the actions of the city council of a small exurban suburb.
  • I can now get through the paper in about 5 minutes--that is how little usable content there is in it.
  • The editorial policy seems to be controlled by market considerations, not a publishing philosophy. One example is that the the paper--the largest paper in the state--didn't endorse anyone for President or Senate before our caucuses on Super Tuesday.
  • They no longer commission public opinion polls.
  • The new owners killed their foundation that funded some great Minneapolis nonprofits.
  • I'm getting my news from online sources. For local news it is primarily the Twin Cities Daily Planet (http://www.tcdailyplanet.net) and MinnPost (http://www.minnpost.com/)
  • Canceling my subscription fits with the "reduce, reuse, recycle" philosophy. I'm reducing.
  • The Strib is no longer worth the price.

Thursday, January 24, 2008

The Rock Star Treatment

This blog post is, in effect, by a guest writer: Hussein Samatar, Executive Director of the African Development Center in Minneapolis. I met Hussein Samatar about three years ago when I helped the African Development Center develop a technology plan and find a database to manage all their activities.* I then got to know Hussein when we served together on the Minneapolis Library Board. Recently Hussein wrote about a trip to Scandinavia and he has agreed to allow me to re-publish it here. It includes some fascinating insights:
.........................................................................................................................
The Rock Star Treatment

As many of you know, this summer Minneapolis City Council Member Robert Lilligren and I traveled overseas to present the success of our Twin Cities community in dealing with immigration from African nations, a vexing problem from our Swedish hosts.

There and in Denmark, we made several presentations to academics, policy experts and immigrant affairs groups in a trip organized by a Swedish colleague, Dr. Benny Carlson of the ZUFI Foundation, and sponsored by the U.S. State Department. The experience solidified impressions formed during my tour of five other European cities as part of the German Marshall Memorial Fellowship program this spring.

That is, the governments of Europe have generally failed to integrate immigrants into the productive side of the economy, and African refugees represent the most demonstrable failure in this regard. Too many languish on public assistance, straining their broader acceptance by society. There’s no shortage of thoughtful solutions in Europe, only a shortage of results. Why?

There are many political and social factors contributing to the frustrating problem of integration. But, from my perspective as a naturalized American, lack of opportunity for self-determination has stifled the economic potential of Africans in even the most progressive European nations. Despite their enlightened ideals, these countries are still stuck in the view that immigration is a problem rather than an opportunity.

By contrast, Minnesota, which claims the highest percentage of African immigrants of any U.S. state—has enabled substantial economic productivity. Here, while continuing to face familiar cultural hurdles, the African diaspora has built wealth and joined society like nowhere else. While political representation remains scant, Africans are moving into the middle class, America’s political bedrock.

In Minnesota, we see good things ahead. This outlook makes Minnesota’s African community the envy of Europe. Again: how to explain this relative success? We are of course a nation of immigrants, and Minnesota is among the most educated, affluent and progressive states, so upward mobility is a historical, natural process. But this doesn’t explain everything.

In travels to Europe this year I’ve become aware of a distinguishing trait I’ll call the Rock Star Factor.

After CM Lilligren and I would speak, we would receive polite applause. But the real interest, excitement, even adulation, was invariably reserved for Nimo Farah, ADC’s program coordinator, who accompanied us on the trip. Now, for those of you unacquainted with Nimo, she is a delightful, intelligent and beautiful young woman who graduated this year from the University of Minnesota. Last year, she was an intern for ADC. Today, in Northern Europe, she is our Elvis Presley.

The academics and policy wonks we addressed, the immigrant groups we met with, the journalists who covered our tour—nobody had seen anything like her before. Educated, outgoing, conversant in business issues, and expecting to be accepted while dressed, albeit stylishly, in observance of her Muslim faith, Nimo engaged the imagination and the emotion of our European friends in a way that two middle-aged suits—a city official and a nonprofit executive—could not hope to equal.

Though composed and diplomatic throughout, Nimo embodied the youthful spirit of rock ‘n roll, an American invention that reacted to stifling social conditions with bold self-determination and obliterated countless barriers to social mobility and economic attainment.

Such barriers are high for my generation of African refugees, which has labored hard to find a footing in our adopted homelands. Nimo’s generation is the one who will climb on the back of mine to achieve the success we are only beginning to envision with meaningful clarity in the United States. Our African brothers and sisters in Europe – and those few in the European mainstream who advocate for them – have suffered for lack of such a vision.

That vision, that rock star presence, was our Nimo.

Regards,

Hussein Samatar,
Executive Director, African Development Center


*While in many ways the African Development Center is a typical Community Development Corporation that works with African Immegrents in Minnesota, it had one specialized need--a database that could handle Islamic-compliant loans.

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Why do nonprofit organizations keep using Ticketmaster?

Had two recent experiences with Ticket Master. My one question is why do venues keep using a company that causes such a bad taste in the mouths of their clients?

My first experience was buying tickets for the Bruce Springsteen concert at the Xcel Center (big arena—home of the MN Wild NHL team). Went for the cheep tickets. Bought four tickets:
  • Total for tickets (plus facility charge) $268.00
  • Ticket Mater Convenience Charge $ 38
  • Ticket Master charge for e-ticket $ 1.75
  • Ticket Master Order Processing Charge $ 3.86
  • Taxes $ 2.79
That equals:
  • Non ticket master cost: $270.79
  • Ticket master fees: $ 43.61
Ticket master added over 16 percent to the cost of the tickets. (And why is it with charging extra for an e-ticket—something that saves processing costs compared to mailing or will call.)

My second experience would have been a total rip-off.
Two $12 tickets (member rate) to a Minnesota Public Radio event at the Fitzgerald (home of the Prairie Home Companion). Choice was Ticketmaster or driving to the box office in downtown St. Paul.

For tickets tat totaled $29.00 (with facility charge) the Ticket Mater charges totaled $13.00. This would have added almost 45%.

I ended up going to the box office the next day to get the tickets and ended up three rows further back than if I had bought the tickets online

There are other options for venues:
So with other ticket services available, (Pro Ticket, used by the Guthrie Theatre is one that comes to mind) why do venues continue to use Ticket Master? You would think that venues (especially nonprofit organizations that have members how contribute money) would want to keep their customers happy and to keep costs to customers as low as possible.

Sunday, September 09, 2007

Importance of good nonprofit management controls in neighborhood groups

For years Minneapolis has had very active neighborhood organizations for years. A few years ago, the city decided to support them by allowing them to administer projects funded by the city (primarily crime prevention, arts, small scale community development and housing improvement). This resulted in neighborhood groups being formed in areas that hadn't had groups in the past and groups dealing with a lot more money than in the past. All these groups did become Minnesota Nonprofit Corporations with 501.c.3 IRS status.

The problem was that the city program that was responsible for working with neighborhood groups decided to concentrate training on neighborhood organizing. Beyond making some resource material available on their website, very little emphasis was placed on basic nonprofit management and very little training was provided in basic nonprofit management issues. Management issues like financial practices and board duties just were not a priority.

So, can it be any surprise that there have been a number of neighborhood groups that have had major financial problems? The most recent case was a group where grant money that was to be used for housing programs was used to pay staff. (The grant did provide money for staff to administer the program but the organization kept using money from the grant long after the administrative line-item was used up.)

Board members have said that there was no way for the board to know this; that it was done by the Executive Director and Treasurer without board knowledge; that the board never asked for the detail that would allow them to see this problem. It appears that this problem had been going on for a number of years. Clearly, adequate audits or controls should have caught this problem quickly (it finally discovered was in an audit).

So, how much did Minneapolis save by not providing the management training. Lets assume that the training would have cost $2,000 per organization. There are 70 neighborhoods in the Minneapolis program. That totals $140,000. In the one neighborhood I've written about, the amount mis-appropriated was around $150,000. This doesn't include the organizations that have went out of existence due to major financial problems.

Capacity building is low cost insurance.